منابع مشابه
Scaling surf zone turbulence
[1] Turbulence in the surf zone, the shallow region adjacent to the shoreline, has a key role in beach erosion, fertilization, dispersal, and larval settlement of marine invertebrates, and microbial contamination dilution in beach waters. Breakingwave generated (the dominant source) surf zone turbulence is understood poorly. A new surf zone turbulent dissipation rate scaling is derived, that co...
متن کاملUsing Apparent Contrast as a Surf Zone Index
Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.
متن کاملSurf zone diffusivity on a rip-channeled beach
[1] Absolute and relative diffusivity are measured on a rip-channeled beach using 30 position-tracking drifters released in clusters (4–12 drifters) deployed on 7 days with different wave forcing and tidal elevations at Sand City, Monterey Bay, California. Diffusivity and dispersion were found to be larger on days with rip current flow patterns and larger waves. Rip currents cause material to d...
متن کاملSurf zone surface retention on a rip-channeled beach
[1] The retention of floating matter within the surf zone on a rip-channeled beach is examined with a combination of detailed field observations obtained during the Rip Current Experiment and a three-dimensional (3-D) wave and flow model. The acoustic Doppler current profiler–observed hourly vertical cross-shore velocity structure variability over a period of 3 days with normally incident swell...
متن کاملWave Group Forcing of Low Frequency Surf Zone Motion
The nearshore potential vorticity balance of Bowen and Holman (1989) is expanded to include the forcing from wave group-induced radiation stresses. Model results suggest that the forcing from these radiation stresses can drive oscillations in the longshore current that have a spatial structure similar to linear shear instabilities of the longshore current. In addition, the forced response is ne...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Coastal Engineering Proceedings
سال: 1980
ISSN: 2156-1028,0589-087X
DOI: 10.9753/icce.v17.32